Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Strong Foundation


Making a good soup is like creating a good life, I think.  Both have to start with a strong foundation.  In making a soup, I always start out much the same way.  This is true whether I am making a simple tomato soup or rich Beef Bourguignon.  With most soups,   I start out by chopping onion and garlic.  I almost always sauté these two ingredients with salt, black pepper and red pepper flakes. From there I take different paths.

  For my tomato soup, I just want to sweat the onions and garlic not brown them.  Then I add some anchovy and tomato paste and let that cook for a minute or two then I deglaze with some broth.  I normally use chicken or vegetable broth for this soup.  Then I add some crushed tomatoes, tomato sauce and tomato juice.  I don’t think I have made it the same way twice.  Sometimes I will add some bread crumbs or torn pieces of bread to thicken the soup.  I like to finish with some fresh herbs, basil being my favorite.  I have also used crispy fried onions, cheese or croutons to garnish.  Really whatever I have on hand generally works.  I rarely puree my soups.  As in life, I find soups more interesting with bits and pieces to chew on.  I would find life pretty boring if there were never any twists or turns, ups or downs, or bumps along the way.

Beef Bourguignon is one of my very favorite dishes to create.  I love that you can take a relatively cheap cut of meat, add an inexpensive bottle of wine and the result is one of the most elegant meals possible.  The whole process is labor intensive.  There is a meditative quality in all the chopping and browning that it takes to make this dish.  From start to finish, it takes me a good 2 or 3 hours to get this stew in the oven.  For me, it is an afternoon well spent.  Add some music, a good friend and a glass of wine and I don’t think it gets any better.

My Beef Bourguignon starts with preparation of the beef.  I use chuck roast.  After cutting the meat into about 1 ½ or 2 inch cubes and patting them dry with a paper towel, I season them thoroughly with salt and pepper on all sides.  Then I render several slices of bacon in my French Oven.  I remove the bacon and add some olive oil to the bacon fat.  Then I start to brown the cubes of seasoned meat.  I brown it on all sides.  This means I stay by the pot and watch the meat, turn it, then watch it some more.  As with any new endeavor, it takes attention and time to begin.  It can take two or three batches to get all of the meat browned.  This is not a step you want to skip it makes a big difference in the result.

After all the meat has been properly browned and removed from the pot, I add some chopped onion along with some salt.  I like to brown the onions.  I think it adds a depth of flavor I really enjoy in this dish.  When the onions are almost where I want them, I add some more seasoning.  Typically I use some chopped garlic, red pepper flakes and fresh thyme.  I let that mixture go for a couple of minutes then add some mushrooms if I’m using them and then some carrots.  After about five minutes more, I deglaze the pan with some red wine.  I use a good drinkable red wine, something like a shiraz or pinot.  I don’t use an expensive one, but one that I find palatable.

When the pan is deglazed, I add the bacon and meat back into the pot.  I add the rest of the bottle of wine and beef stock to bring the liquid almost to the top of the meat, but not covering it.  I add a little more salt, pepper and a few bay leaves.  If I’m going to add some frozen pearl onions, this is when I would add them.  After bringing it up to boil, I turn it down to a slow simmer for about 30 minutes or so.  Then I put the lid on the pot and place it in a 325 degree oven for about 1 ½ hours.

At this point, I have laid a strong foundation for this dish and can turn my attentions elsewhere for a time. After the oven time has elapsed I take the pot from the oven and put it back on top of the stove.  While the stew is coming up to a boil, I combine room temperature butter and flour in equal amounts forming a paste.  I thicken the stew with the paste using 2 or 3 tablespoons.  Now it can go back into a low oven or stay on the stovetop until you are ready for it.  I like to serve it with buttered noodles or mashed potatoes.  It is really good simply with some crusty bread along side as well.  Finish it with a flourish of fresh chopped parsley and you have a meal fit for any table.

The table that is my life has been adorned with an array of complex, comforting and sometime bitter dishes.  Several years ago, I had a total life change.  I closed by business that had been my life for more than seven years.  I sold my home I had lived in for a decade along with the land which had been in my family since I was a teenager.  My 14 year relationship came to an end and I met my new love who later became my spouse.  All of this happened within a two year time frame.  In some ways, it felt like it was going to be the end of me.  If it wasn’t for my foundation of faith in God, friends and family, it might have.

Today, I am once again happy and fulfilled.  I love my job, my home and of course my spouse.  Together, she and I are building a new foundation of love and life.  We have a group of family and friends that I wouldn’t trade for anything.  My life is now like a rich beautiful Beef Bourguignon full of depth and flavor.  As for my soup, I’ll take it rustic, no puree here please. 


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